Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
